We finally took a daytrip to Lourdes, a town nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenées. As a non-Catholic, I knew nothing about Lourdes until several people suggested I go and check it out (jokingly, I think). After our French teacher in Seattle (an American) highly recommended the trip--as a strange blend of touristy cheesiness and religious beauty--it was on my list of places to see. Personally, I wanted to see the Grotto and to check out the many religious souvenir shops. I was not disappointed on either account.
For those who, like me, know nothing about Lourdes, here's a very brief history according to two well-known theological references: The Michelin Guide and Wikipedia (so take it for what it's worth)...
On 11 Feb. 1858, a young girl, Bernadette Soubirous claimed a beautiful lady appeared to her in the remote Grotto of Massabielle (in Lourdes). The lady later identified herself as "the Immaculate Conception" and the faithful believe her to be the Blessed Virgin Mary. Our Lady appeared 18 times, and by 1859 thousands of pilgrims were visiting Lourdes. During the 9th apparition Bernadette began to scribble with her fingers in the earth floor of the cave and suddenly a spring, never before suspected, gushed forth and continued to flow in front of the startled spectators. Pilgrims have been making the trip to the famous Grotto ever since. Lourdes (pop. 15,203) now hosts over 5.5 million visitors a year, and is considered to be the most important place of pilgrimage in the western hemisphere.
Also according to the Michelin Guide there are 600 shops in Lourdes, 80% of them selling religious objects. I personally like all things kitsch so I found the shopping to be quite interesting. You can get just about anything with the image of the Virgin Mary on it. My favorites included postcards that when viewed from one direction show Bernadette by herself and then from a different angle show her with the Virgin Mary. I also saw one with Pope John Paul II in one image with the new Pope (Benedict XVI) in the other. Nice! You can also buy containers (for holding water from the grotto) ranging in size from a mini-flask to several liters (all with the picture of the Virgin Mary, of course). I ended up buying a small flask (that I intended to fill up) and many postcards. Some of these stores like the Palace of Rosaries put Archie McPhee to shame.
Here's a picture of me filling up my flask with water from the grotto (due to the huge numbers of pilgrims, it's now piped to a collection of water fountains--not so romantic but it's still the same water). I forgot to mention that the water is supposed to have healing powers so the fountains are a big attraction. I put my hands under the water as well--however my psoriasis still seems to be there.
While the numerous souvenir shops you encounter on the way to the grotto is quite cheesy and amusing, the mood within the religious grounds is quite serious and fairly somber. Unlike most cathedrals you visit in France, most of the visitors here are clearly quite religious and devout. You see lots of people praying, especially in the actual grotto itself. Perhaps the most moving (and sad) part for me was the large number of handicapped/sick children and elderly being led around (often on wheelchair or on rolling beds). One positive aspect is that there is a great deal of respect given to these people which I'm sure is not always the case in the world outside.
My little souvenir... Water from Lourdes. Origin guaranteed!
